**Goodbye, Pahalgam!**
We were emotional about bidding goodbye to Saba and his folks. Although it had been only two nights, it seemed we were leaving good friends. The memories of Pahalgam, with its serene beauty and the warm hospitality that made us feel so welcomed and appreciated, still linger in our minds. As we set off for Srinagar, we were filled with excitement and nostalgia for the experiences that awaited us.
Our journey to Srinagar began early, with the promise of a delicious lunch awaiting us at the houseboat. Riaz declared, ‘Our lunch would be ready when we reach the houseboat’
‘Excellent….We are looking forward,’ goes Amit.
River Jhelum – the lifeline of Kashmir
Making of cricket bats from Kashmir Willows
As we travelled through the picturesque landscapes, our anticipation for the new experiences in Srinagar grew, filling us with excitement and intrigue for what was to come.
We travelled through the winding roads with straight, barren poplar trees on both sides. We were passing a village called Sangam, nestled high in the mountains and on the way from Pahalgam to Srinagar. Nearby villages in Sangam manufacture 80 per cent of the world’s cricket bats. All the cricket players of the world might have used their manufactured Kashmir Willow bats. We saw the raw bats left to dry on the rooftop with the shops underneath. The kids were playing cricket on the road even though it was raining. There was no off-season in cricket-mad India. My son Rohan is an avid cricket fan and we took some photos for him.
**Ruins of Awantipora**
On the way, we stopped at Awantipora Ruins on the bank of the Jhelum. This historically significant town is nestled between Srinagar and Pahalgam. It was cold, and the drizzle continued. The gloomy sky matched the grey waters of the Jhelum. Yes, we met the Jhelum River, the lifeline of Kashmir Valley here.
These charming shrines stood serenely amidst the scenic green valleys. The temple was erected by the emperor Avantivarman during his reign in Jammu and Kashmir and dedicated to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu, building two major shrines for these deities. The temple was decorated with beautiful carvings and structures, revealing the masterly architecture and art of that time. The Awantipora temple had been intricately designed, attracting many pilgrims and spiritual folks almost all year round. As a characteristic of Kashmir, which is known for its rich cultural diversity, Awantipora has drawn Hindu and Muslim devotees.
The Awantipora Temple complex lost its richness and was reduced to remnants, with a few portions still intact and visited by devout followers. Though in ruins, this temple complex was highly revered by its devotees and believers.
The Awantipora Temple complex
The Awantipora Temple complex
On the way, we read a sign self-effacingly declaring, “We grow the world’s best saffron here.”
Kashmir, Iran, and Spain produce the bulk of this exotic spice. We were thrilled to see spice shops on both sides of the road, so we wanted to check them out.
Arpan disagreed. Riaz comforted, ‘I will take you to better shops in Srinagar. We’d better continue. If we spend time on the road, we will be late for lunch.”
**Srinagar – a dream destination on Dal Lake**
Passing the army base, we entered Srinagar. Indian soldiers armed with their weapons and bland expressions manned checkpoints every few hundred metres, a harsh reminder of the insurgency that has blighted Kashmir since 1989. We noticed the presence of the Indian army all the way along, but we felt the magnitude of the insurgency that had happened before in Srinagar. Many people warned us about the political situation in Kashmir, but honestly, I felt perfectly safe.
Most people in Kashmir are poor and heavily rely on tourism. Since the political unrest started in 1989, the tourists have stopped coming, and they have no income. Now, they have realised the importance of tourists and are working to keep the place safe for them to help make a living. This was also possible because the Indian army was manning every corner of the streets in Srinagar.
At last, we were in Srinagar. I was thinking of jumping on the houseboat immediately, but wait… we haven’t reached our houseboat yet. Gulzar stopped the car at the Dal Gate. Riaz hired 2 Shikaras to transfer us to the houseboat.
As we arrived at the Dal Lake, I was left speechless by its dreamlike beauty. The surroundings seemed to disappear as I was lost in the enchanting view. It took a gentle nudge from Arpan to bring me back to reality.
Shikara in Dal Lake
**Luxurious Houseboat on Dal Lake**
Our houseboat was a sight, nestled a couple of hundred meters away from Dal Gate. We had booked all three suites, each one a luxurious haven complete with three beds, plush sofas, a dressing table, and a spacious Western-style bathroom. The separate lounge and dining rooms offered a perfect view of the lake and the mountains from the balcony. The entire houseboat was adorned with elegant artwork and exquisite furniture; even the coffee table was a masterpiece in itself.
‘Thank you, Riaz! This is very elegant. ‘Thanks for allowing us to stay for a few nights,’ I said.
Our Houseboat
**Meeting beautiful people of Kashmir**
Riaz’s dad, Abdul Majid, came to say hello and was very polite. He was the owner of the houseboat. The houseboat wall displayed some photos from the British era, and he proudly explained the visits from these people. He told us how Kashmir was once the centre of Bollywood movie shootings, and a couple of movies were shot in his houseboat. He loved glorifying the old times. He regretted that there would be nobody to look after the business soon. The people avoided hiring houseboats because they were more expensive than the hotels. They don’t earn enough to support the family. The grandkids go to school and do not wish to be confined here. Riaz mentioned they were sad because his older brother went overseas and never returned. We had a wonderful time talking to and getting to know him.
Abdul Majid showed us his residence at the back of the houseboat. The family was asset-rich but cash-poor. We felt guilty watching their living standards compared to the luxury they provide us.
Lounge room our Houseboat
Dining room in our houseboat
**Befriending with the angles**
After lunch, we were mobbed by Riaz’s children, Sameer, Fiza and niece Mahek. They were so beautiful! Their cheeks were like red apples, looking like angels. Rakhi made them instant friends by giving them chocolates. Fiza, the little girl, was particularly fascinated by my mobile phone and sat beside me. Although the other two kids spoke a little, this little girl did not. She kept looking at me and the phone alternately. She was curious about what I was doing with my phone and wanted to take a look. I passed the phone to her. She kept pointing the camera at me, so I took her photo and showed it to her. She gave me one of the most beautiful smiles. Beautiful moments….. I can still visualise with my eyes closed.
We were greeted by another gentleman, Bilal, our attendant, with our afternoon tea and snacks. Riaz’s wife used to cook for us. Bilal was always smiling. Even though he was wearing Phiran, his feet were bare. We noticed Bilal was running around in the rain to bring the food from Riaz’s house during our stay. We felt so cold, but he looked seasoned. He just smiled when asked whether he was cold (sub-zero temperature and continuous wetting in the rain). He didn’t speak much, but always had his beautiful smile. We got more than we bargained for in Srinagar. Meeting people like him would make your day.
Per our programme, we were supposed to ride a Shikara in the evening. It had been raining heavily, and we were tired. In the meantime, another Majid walked in. He had been selling Kashmiri shawls, dress material, and bed sheets to the people in the houseboats for some time.
Arpan reminded us, ‘It is better to enjoy nature than bargaining shawls.’ We agreed to tell him to come tomorrow.
The rain did not stop. So we had to abandon riding Shikara and extend our adda (get together) over tea, coffee and Pakora (Deep fried vegetable with chickpeas flour-yum!) in front of Bukhari (heater). My mother felt like sitting on top of it but settled beside it, enjoying the warmth. We played antaksari (a game of finding songs with the last letter of the previous song).
Bilal served our dinner. We were going to visit Gulmarg tomorrow and had to get out early. Although Srinagar was just a fraction warmer than Pahalgam, it was still sub-zero, and I needed four layers of blankets to stay warm. I fell asleep quickly.
**Gulmarg – The meadow of flowers**
The picturesque village of Gulmarg, nestled in the Kashmir Valley in the Pir Panjal range of the mighty Himalayas, is a remarkable place. Its majestic views, extraordinary heights, and unique snow experiences make it one of the world’s most incredible destinations, and we were excited to visit and immerse ourselves in its ethereal beauty.
“Oh, at last!” I said to myself, visualising Gulmarg in my dreams and eagerly anticipating our arrival. Gulmarg, meaning “meadow of flowers,” is an impressive place. Its average elevation is 8,825 feet, close to the Pakistani border.
The distance from Srinagar to Gulmarg is around 50 kilometres. We didn’t expect the journey to take more than two hours. However, the bus was stopped at a checkpoint because Gulzar had not renewed his paperwork. We had to wait for more than an hour to be released. When we arrived at Tangmarg, the base for Gulmarg, it was raining again, and the area was already crowded. It turned into organised chaos to rent our snow gear. All the shops were packed with people, and the muddy water combined with hundreds of people in the rain created a scene we thought we were not expecting at the base of Gulmarg—a wave of disappointment washed over me.
We were irritated by the bargaining and the chaos surrounding us. Bapi was a great help during this hectic time, but I encountered a problem: their boots were too big, and they informed me that my boot size wasn’t available. I had no choice but to make do.
**Ethereal beauty of Gulmarg**
As we entered the valley, all our worries and miseries from the base vanished. The road upwards was narrow and winding, but the snow-covered valley was extravagantly beautiful with towering Silver Fir and Pine trees. It was a moment of pure joy and excitement.
“Ethereal!” Arpan exclaimed.
Winding uphill road to Gulmarg
Exquisite Towering snow-covered Silver Fir and Pine trees
Even though it was raining, the scenery around us was out of this world. The misty mountains, the sound of raindrops on the leaves, the fresh smell of the wet earth, and the chill in the air created a scene beyond words. My eyes popped wide open as I soaked it all in. The Mountain View revealed its mystic beauty, and I felt an overwhelming sense of joy; it was a spiritual experience.
With his long arms, Arpan reached for the snow from the bus and made snowballs for all of us. My mother and Lekha were thrilled and wished they could take some ice balls back home.
My mother loving the ice ball
Rekha enjoying the ice ball
Break at a mystic vantage point
At first, we were all scared to venture into the snow-covered valley. The rain continued, making the snow slippery, and we feared falling. Arpan led the way, and after a few near slips, I followed behind.
Bapi, Rakhi, Shreya, and I were nervous after putting on our gear, which made us uncomfortable and ill-fitting. We worried about slipping while being bundled up in so many layers. Locals approached us, offering sledges pulled by them to take us to the gondola. Scared of toppling over, we decided not to hire one. Later, we saw that a few people were sharing a single sledge.
Looking at them, I thought, ‘I should have hired it. I wouldn’t be heavier than three people combined.’
Izaz, a local guide with a warm smile and a deep love for his homeland, helped us navigate toward the gondola. Like many guides in Kashmir, he was enthusiastic about taking photos and sharing his knowledge about the area. Izaz’s friendly and helpful nature made our experience more enjoyable and memorable.
We spent a lot of time taking pictures, especially with Shreya, and before we knew it, it was nearly 1 p.m. The gondola would close at 2 p.m.
Inside the main area of Gulmarg
We left my mother, Lekha, and Amit on the bus. So we opted to head back. It would be too late for lunch, and everyone waiting on the bus would be bored with nothing to do. After walking on the snow for a while, we turned back. Izaz tried to assist us by taking a shortcut to a restaurant he knew, but the snow was very slippery, and we found ourselves going downhill. It was a bad idea because black ice was scattered everywhere around this section.
In my haste to cross the slippery area, I slipped and fell on my backside, unable to get up momentarily. Everyone around me laughed, and Arpan laughed hard (though he wasn’t spared later). Seeing me fall, Bapi immediately sat on the snow to slide down. I wished I had hired a stick like we did in Betab Valley. It was painful, and I suffered for the next two weeks.
**Kashmiri Kahwa and local Cuisine**
“We are so cold,” Bapi said as he ordered a locally prepared hot drink called Kahwa to warm us up before lunch. The warm, aromatic Kahwa, made with local spices like cardamom, cinnamon, and saffron and served in traditional Kashmiri cups, was a perfect way to beat the chill and experience the local cuisine. We also tried some conventional Kashmiri dishes like Rogan Josh and Dum Aloo, which were a treat for our taste buds.
Since my mother, Lekha, and Amit missed visiting the valley, we took their photos in the snow near the restaurant. We had also missed out on the gondola ride and Khilanmarg. On a clear day, views of the great Himalayas—from Nanga Parbat to the twin peaks of Nun (23409 ft) and Kun (23219 ft) to the southeast—could be seen from Khilanmarg. It was a significant miss, and we regret not having enough time. Next time we visit, we should stay overnight in Gulmarg to explore its beauty fully.
Just as we were about to leave Gulmarg, it started snowing. We stretched our hands out the bus window to feel the tingling sensation of snowflakes falling. It felt like a dream, like a fairyland. The unexpected snowfall, a rare and magical touch, added a new dimension to our trip, leaving us in awe of Gulmarg’s natural beauty. The sight of the snow-covered trees and the sound of the snowflakes hitting the ground created a serene and peaceful atmosphere. We wished we could have stayed longer but had to return to Srinagar.
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