**The anticipation for the journey to the dreamland**
Gulzar announced, “That’s it; the bus won’t move anymore.”
Our journey was abruptly interrupted when the bus, after a slow drive, suddenly came to a halt. All the vehicles ahead were in chaos and queued up at a standstill.
‘Breathtaking!!!’ Peering through the bus window, I was terrified and awestruck simultaneously by the scene near the steep Chenab River gorge. The narrow path was lined with vehicles, and the mist from the river added to the eerie atmosphere.
A massive landslide caused by the heavy rainfall severely damaged the road, sending a chunk into the gorge. The falling rocks blocked our way, giving everyone in the group a unique experience—our first encounter with a landslide! The sound of the rocks tumbling down the steep slope was terrifying and exhilarating.
“The rocks will be cleared when the rain stops. It may take several hours.” Riaz’s words were not entirely comforting. It was a stark reminder of the unpredictable nature of travel in the mountain region, a fact that often adds an element of thrill to our adventures, giving another dimension.
It was uncertain how long it would take to move again; I re-visited the background of how this tour started.
**Dreamland Awakens**
“Dreaming of Kashmir?”
“I always do.”
“Your dream may come true soon! Can we plan a visit to Kashmir next year?”
“Are you serious?” I screamed with excitement when Bapi called me from India.
Kashmir, often described as paradise on earth, captivated me with its breathtaking landscapes. Its grandeur was beyond words, and it had been a dream destination for me and many others.
“Yes, Kashmir,” Bapi confirmed, and it was a moment of disbelief. Jammu & Kashmir, a place often overshadowed by the threat of terrorism, was now a possibility for me to visit. It took some time for that reality to sink in. I couldn’t believe I might actually see Kashmir.
“Are you going to organise it?” I asked.
“My friend has a houseboat in Srinagar. People have started revisiting Kashmir, and he will happily organise a tour for us. When do you think you can go?”
Our trips with Bapi, his wife Rakhi, and daughter Shreya have always been delightful. Our shared experiences, laughter, and bonds made our journeys memorable and unique. This sense of togetherness and shared joy is what makes travel truly special.
I have loved travelling since childhood, so dreaming about visiting Kashmir felt natural. I had seen photos and movies and had heard many tales about the place people called “Bhu Swarga” (Heaven on Earth). The names of places like Srinagar, Pahalgam, Gulmarg, and Sonamarg were music to my ears. These destinations felt like a wonderland I could only dream of. I remember my excitement when I visited a friend’s house in Year 10; they were lucky enough to see Kashmir. Their stories of staying in a houseboat on Dal Lake and gazing at the snow-clad mountains around captivated me. Their thrilling details of travelling along the lovely winding roads by the rivers Tawi, Jhelum, and Chenab and sitting quietly on the bank of Lidder while staying in a nearby log hut in Pahalgam further fueled my desire to visit. They had shown me an exquisite Kashmir shawl and other products they bought from Kashmir, and I fell in love with the place. The thought of waking up to the serene beauty of Dal Lake or the thrill of travelling along the winding paths of the valleys filled me with a sense of longing and excitement that I couldn’t put into words. It was heavenly bliss, and I fell in love with the place.
**Planning the Kashmir Trip:**
The mere thought of finally setting foot in paradise filled us with excitement and a sense of adventure. After a long wait, I would finally visit my childhood dreamland. My husband, Arpan, was eager to see it but had safety concerns.
‘Will it be safe to travel now?’ He was in two minds.
I convinced him, “Trust me, it will be the trip of a lifetime.”
Bapi and I began planning the tour. Since we lived in different countries, finding the perfect time was challenging. After discussions, we settled on the end of March 2014.
My mother, Maya, was also keen to visit Kashmir and decided to join us. My sister-in-law, Rekha, and her husband, Amit, had just missed out on a trip to Kashmir with their friends and thought this was an excellent opportunity to join our group. So, we had eight people ready for the journey of a lifetime. We were all filled with excitement and anticipation, so we decided to jot down our expectations, dreams and hopes for the journey. This exercise created a sense of unity among us and added a layer of anticipation as we envisioned capturing moments that would become cherished memories.
The duration of the tour posed a challenge; we would only have a few days to explore, and there were so many places to visit. We planned to visit Jammu first, stopping at Vaishno Devi, a holy shrine on Trikuta Mountain.
Thanks to Bapi, as an icing on the cake, he arranged for us to stay in a houseboat on Dal Lake for four nights. We preferred a houseboat to experience the tranquility of living on the water. Bapi also arranged for us to stay in a log house by the River Lidder for two nights. We couldn’t ask for more; we were absolutely over the moon!!!
**Challenges and Dilemma**
As we eagerly awaited our departure, we began to hear reports of ongoing landslides and road blockages in Kashmir due to the incessant rain. This setback heightened our anxiety but also made us more determined to make the journey happen. We spent hours discussing alternative routes and preparing for possible adjustments to our itinerary. The thrill of overcoming these challenges only added to our excitement and determination to make this journey a reality.
Three weeks before our trip, Bapi said we might have to abandon the tour. We received a terrible weather warning. It was raining throughout Kashmir, and most areas were covered with heavy unseasonal snow. Landslides cut off the roads. The power lines were torn. No power was available in Pahalgam or Srinagar. Most of the accommodations are closed for business. Water was scarce in those areas as well. We were in a dilemma and tried frantically to reach our accommodation services for updates. We were hyped up so much; we would be heartbroken if the trip did not go ahead.
With the threat of cancellation looming, we turned to social media and travel blogs, immersing ourselves in stories and photographs from people recently visiting Kashmir. Virtual tours of beautiful places like the Mughal gardens and the vibrant Dal Lake and glimpses of the local cuisine fueled our wanderlust and kept our spirits high.
A week before the trip, we received news that some areas were still experiencing heavy rainfall, which impacted travel plans. If outdoor adventures were limited, Bapi brainstormed alternative activities to boost our spirits, such as exploring local culinary tours or indoor cultural experiences in Srinagar.
At the last minute, we received confirmation that our tour would proceed, although Pahalgam and Srinagar were not fully functional. The basic supplies had been restored. That’s a sigh of relief. We were over the moon that our Kashmir trip was going ahead. We wanted to experience the heavenly bliss of scenic Kashmir. We were not looking for luxury; we needed just the bare minimum. We nearly missed the tour.
In our final group meeting before the trip, we took a moment to set intentions for our journey—not just to visit places but to embrace new experiences, create lasting memories, and foster connections with each other and the culture of Kashmir. We vowed to keep our minds open to whatever adventures awaited us.
**Kashmir – The Paradise on Earth**
Nature has crafted a masterpiece in Kashmir, a rarity often called the ‘Paradise on Earth’. Its beauty is unparalleled, and its landscapes stun the senses. Nestled like a precious gem on top of India, Kashmir is a multi-faceted diamond. It changes its hues with the seasons but is always breathtakingly beautiful. In winter, the snow-covered field and valley seem like a wonderland. As spring and summer arrive, the honey-dewed orchards, sparkling lakes, and blue skies create a different magic. They invite everyone to explore their soul-searching experiences.
The majestic Great Himalayan Range and its offshoots dominate the landscape. The Pir Panjal and Shivalik ranges gave birth to the magnificent rivers flowing through Kashmir’s lush valleys.
Its snow-covered mountains, green valleys, gardens, and natural lakes form a breathtaking canvas that captivates our five senses and leaves us in awe of its sheer beauty. But it’s not just the natural beauty that makes Kashmir unique. The warm hospitality of the locals, the rich cultural heritage, and the delicious Kashmiri cuisine, with its unique blend of spices and flavours, add a unique charm to this paradise. The opportunity to immerse myself in these local experiences is a part of the allure of Kashmir for.
Despite the occasional landslides that block the Srinagar-Jammu highway, Kashmir remains a top tourist destination for Indians. The local authorities have implemented significant safety measures, ensuring the well-being and confidence of tourists. The unparalleled natural beauty of Kashmir far surpasses the inconvenience of these rare occurrences. This commitment to safety and the allure of the landscape have not deterred people from visiting this paradise.
Gateway to Heaven: First Glimpse of Jammu City **
From the air, we could see the majestic River Tawi, a significant geographical feature of Jammu that exudes a sense of tranquillity and connection to nature. The city is graced by four bridges that span this beautiful river, adding to its charm.
The name ‘Jammu’ carries a rich historical significance, derived from Raja Jambulochan, a revered figure in the city’s history. Once known as Jambupora, the city adopted the name ‘Jammu’ in honour of this esteemed ruler, a testament to the city’s deep-rooted history and traditions.
Jammu, the winter capital of Jammu and Kashmir, is a city of unique geographical beauty. Nestled on the banks of the River Tawi, it is a picturesque city at the foothills of the Shivalik Hills. The Shivalik surrounds the city in the north, east, and southwest. The protective embrace of the Trikuta range on the northwest further enhances the city’s beauty. The range is home to the famous Vaishno Devi Shrine.
We experienced delays due to strict security at Jammu airport—a necessary precaution given the region’s sensitive geopolitical situation. People travelling to Katra (to visit the Vaishno Devi Shrine) could book their taxis directly inside the airport. However, since we were staying in Jammu, we had to exit the airport to hire a private car to take us to our hotel in the city. This system was quite inconvenient, especially since private vehicles were not allowed to park on the road outside the airport for security reasons. We parked our car inside a petrol station and rushed to get in.
**Exploring Jammu City**
As we entered the city, we passed countless temples, and we were excited to see the decorated spice, dry fruit, and Kashmiri garment shops lining both sides of the road. However, our excitement quickly diminished when we arrived at our hotel, which was located in a narrow lane. The porters had to carry our luggage from the main road to the hotel. One of the rooms was occupied by a film crew, and the manager informed us that the ladies from the crew were changing clothes in the room we had booked. They requested that we rest in the other room for now, assuring us they would have our original room ready in an hour. With little to do while we waited, we reminded ourselves, “Well, the Raghunath Temple and market are nearby.”
The Raghunath Temple, with its outstanding artwork and seven other temples, is a cultural marvel located in the heart of the city. The temple’s main idol is Lord Rama, but other deities from the Hindu Epic Ramayana are also represented. The inner walls of the main temple are covered with gold sheets on three sides, and the interiors are gold-plated. Many Saligrams (sacred black stones representing the God Narayan or Vishnu) are displayed, offering a unique and captivating cultural experience.
Raghunath Temple from outside
Going through the strict security check and patiently waiting in line to see the idol took some novelty away from our visit. Visitors were not allowed to bring their belongings inside. Arpan and Amit decided to wait outside, hoping to visit the temple after us. Their annoyance at having to wait led them to skip the visit altogether later.
The variety of spices and Kashmiri shawls on display thrilled us. We examined items like small children, discovering cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, bay leaves, cumin, garlic, and many unfamiliar spices. Saffron, an exotic spice, is grown here and sold at a lower price. When we returned to the hotel, our rooms had been cleaned. However, negotiating with local companies to book a car for sightseeing proved challenging. It was also difficult to arrange transportation to Katra, where Bapi and his family would join us the next day.
Spice Shop in Jammu
**Bagh E Bahu and Bahu Fort**
Bagh-E-Bahu, near Bahu Fort, is a beautiful garden situated along the banks of the River Tawi in a tranquil setting, away from the bustling city. The delightful weather made us declare, “We must take a stroll inside.”
The picturesque terraced garden serves as a sanctuary for relaxation, showcasing various species of blooming flowers that create a vibrant tapestry. The sight and sound of the terrace fountains contribute to the tranquillity, while the view of the River Tawi and Jammu City from the garden’s height is simply outstanding. The exquisitely beautiful spaces within the garden invite visitors to connect with nature and find inspiration in its breathtaking beauty.
The River Tawi originates from Kali Kundi Glacier. It flows through Jammu and the lower part of the state before joining the River Chenab in Pakistan.
River Tawii from Bagh-E-bahu
As we admired the landscape, a catchy tune reached our ears. We turned to find a man playing a flute.
‘”Beautiful!” Arpan praised him. “Would you please play something for us?” His music added a unique touch to our experience, igniting our excitement to explore more. “Sure!” he responded, clearly happy to oblige. He played one of the most heartwarming tunes we had ever heard. “Oh! It was heaven,” we thought, listening to such beautiful music in a stunning setting. The magical melody amidst the gorgeous garden felt like heaven on earth! You couldn’t ask for more? I was totally rapt and melting inside. It was an unworldly feeling that transported me to a dreamlike state where only I and nature existed. He made our day.
The Flute Player
Bahu Fort was being renovated, but we visited an impressive fish-shaped aquarium on the hilltop. This aquarium is the largest underground aquarium in India, and we thoroughly enjoyed the notable collection of fish and water creatures inside.
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